There’s a little bit of disagreement over what invention deserves to be called the first motorcycle. One of the candidates is the Roper Steam Cycle, built by Sylvestor H. Roper in Boston, Massachusetts sometime between 1867 and 1869. A few other possibilities came out of France and Germany, but Roper’s cycle is the only one made in America and as such it features prominently at the National Motorcycle Museum in Anamosa, Iowa.

I stood outside of an empty room at the Rodeway Inn of West Hollywood, ready to ride off into the sunset on my bike. It was just about the quintessential dream of any American motorcyclist. Perfect California weather. Plenty of time. Only a vague plan to head north for the summer. But as I looked back into the room, I found tears welling up in my eyes.